Pudong skyline, Shanghai

Pudong skyline, Shanghai
Pudong skyline, Shanghai

Monday 29 October 2012

HK OK

Having spent 9 days sauntering around the sights of Shanghai, it was time for the family to venture further afield.  A trip to Hong Kong, before heading home provided a change of scene and allowed me to join them to explore somewhere new to us all.

Upon our arrival, it all felt a little too familiar, I could read signs, as you would imagine everything is clearly marked in English and Chinese.  Everyone (or near enough everyone) speaks some degree of English.  Both of these things were a novelty for a short time, before the realisation that 90% of written and spoken English is unnecessary drivel – advertising and gossip.  Another reason I like working in non-English speaking countries – ignorance is bliss and you can easily block out and ignore foreign chit chat.

Anyway, I digress.  Returning to familiarity – everything was very British… except the weather of course: hot & humid is far from Brit climate.  The road signs, double decker buses, street names, high street stores such as M&S, Clarkes and Hush Puppies etc.  Brands and products were the same as at home.  Prior to taking this trip, I was of course aware of the 1997 handover, but still I expected the Chinese would have made more of a mark since.

Initially venturing out of the hotel and getting our bearings led us to the Avenue of the Stars, a short walk from where we were staying in Kowloon.  I won’t lie, most of the names I didn’t recognise, but Jackie Chan, Bruce Lee and Jet Li were a few I did.  Posing for a photo, placing my palms in the concrete casts of one Mr J. Chan, I can tell they weren’t accurate moulds.  I’ve yet to meet an Asian man with larger hands than mine.  I doubt Jackie’s really are – he probably wobbled the cement to give the impression his hands were larger (pun intended).  The Avenue of the Stars also provided a good vantage point from which to watch the sunset on our first day.
 

Venturing out of Kowloon we got the ferry to Hong Kong Island.  Having read of the stunning views the tram to Victoria Peak viewpoint offered, we were slightly worried the heat haze would detract from the experience.  Luckily, our fears weren’t realised and the views were as impressive as we had hoped.  Spending the day in the company of a lovely Australian lady we met on the bus journey provided a reminder of how different my lifestyle and career choices are from the majority of people.  If you’re reading this Marie, thank you for your company and for making me feel so special.
 

The next day saw us walking down Nathan Road, the main street that runs north to south down Kowloon.  Being asked every 20 yards became exhausting and the monotony of replying ‘no, thank you’ gave way to my playful side.  Instead, I adopted a different tact, choosing to question them, ask if they could repair my broken watch free of charge, or just providing compliments and enquiring how a man stays in such obviously good physical shape when his job merely requires him to stand on a pavement all day every day! I’m sure it brightened their days too.

Which brings me nicely to my favourite observation about Hong Kong – the men.  Most guys in Shanghai are fairly short (compared to me anyway) and rather effeminate.  Now I like a man to be fashionable and take care of his appearance, but when his shoe/bag collection is larger than you own, you have to start wondering…  Hong Kong, however, has a multitude of tall, toned, totty!  Men of all races and backgrounds who are fashionable and firm!  Men of Shanghai, ditch the Dolce and man up!

A trip to the jade market saw me walking away with some very reasonably priced purple jade earrings and necklace - more my style than the light green stuff traditionally worn in these parts and unusual to boot.  Telling traders you live in Shanghai always gains more respect and lower ‘special prices for you’ and they know you won’t budge from your original ‘best price’ offer.

Kowloon park was next on the agenda, with a Chinese garden, sculpture park and aviary amongst other sections there was plenty to see.  The highlight for me was ‘admiring’ the oversized statues in the Avenue of Comic Stars.  None of whom I had heard of or seen before, but I had fun posing with a few of them anyhow.

 

Our final evening saw us getting dolled up to take advantage of a generous gift.  A lush buffet style dinner inside a well known International hotel chain.  Trying my best to maintain the ladylike exterior was particularly challenging once faced with so many different dishes and foods not commonly found or eaten during my time in Asia.  Gorging on everything that took my fancy and opting for a large plate upon which to place my multitude of desserts no doubt left a few onlookers asking the eternal question: “where does she put it all?”
 
 
My verdict – a nice city break for the materialistic shopaholics and an ideal place to dip your toe in an Asian experience, but not somewhere a well-travelled culture-seeking sort like myself could see herself returning to.  Back to street food, chopsticks and incomprehensible Chinese chit chat for me – I’m sooooo Asian now!
 
A xx

Sunday 28 October 2012

It's a family affair

Last year I discouraged my family from visiting Vietnam; the dirt, heat, humidity and all that comes with a developing country in the tropics didn’t seem like the kind of place they would lovingly embrace – even for a short holiday.  This year, however, I was keen to share my life here with them: selling Shanghai as ‘the New York of Asia’.  Both well travelled, worldly wise ladies, this would be Mum’s first visit to Asia and my Aunt’s second visit to China.  Nine days in Shangers, followed by four days in Hong Kong seemed a nice way to ease little Mumsy in to Chinese culture, whilst still maintaining some western familiarity.

New experiences included wandering around the French Concession, visiting the Jade Buddha Temple; taking a trip to my school to meet my fantastic colleagues, a night time tour of the Bund with Cathy; drinks in one of my favourite tipple-tastic wine bars; lunch with a friend in an English themed restaurant; exploring the alleys and lanes of Tianzifang with its many arts and crafts curio shops; shopping and taking in the scenery at the Yu garden; bartering and driving hard bargains at one of the markets; and getting up close to the towers in Pudong.

 
 
As I had to work on the Saturday, Mum & Aunt had the perfect opportunity to spend time with one of my friends, in the form of a daytrip to Hangzhou.  Once off the bullet train they mooched around the lake, gardens and pagodas offered a glimpse of a second tier city and slower pace to Chinese life.

Our final evening in Shangers offered a new cultural dining experience for the pair when we were invited to a Korean BBQ.  I’m a big fan of Korean food and always enjoy a do-it-yourself BBQ.  With four friends as company we consumed a feast of BBQ meats, kimchee and the like.  An excellent way to end the trip and another example of how wonderful and considerate my Chinese friends are.

It was wonderful to see them again after so long and great to share my new life.
A xx

Saturday 13 October 2012

Quite a reception

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of attending my first Chinese wedding reception.  An excellent opportunity to experience a traditional celebration and a fabulous excuse to dress up, I had been looking forward to this for quite some time. 
 
Walking into the grand room I first noticed the marble and mirrored pillars, then the chandeliers, dark drapes and marble stage.  Next I see the happy couple, waiting to greet me.  The bride wore a traditional red silk Chinese dress, with matching flat shoes; the groom - a burgundy collarless suit.
 
Upon arrival you are requested to have your photos and video taken with the bride & groom, then just with the groom, then lovingly embracing the bride, then holding the gift of a hóngbāo (red envelope) that is traditionally given at such events.  Your next task is to sign the wedding book, which got the attention of numerous onlookers as they watched me write, obviously in English using Roman alphabet.  Being led to my seat, to my surprise I found I was seated on the Chinese equivalent of the ‘top table’.  In China, this is not reserved for the bride & groom’s family, but for them to share with their closest friends: a wonderful surprise and great honour.
 
The MC announces the happy couple and they come walking down a red aisle, to a stage draped in red organza and decorated with the Chinese sign for ‘happiness’.  The bride, wearing an ornate veil over her head and face, approaches with her groom in hand, while the happy couple’s parents sit on either side of the stage to greet them.  After lots of speeches and incomprehensible Chinese chit chat, the groom lifts the bride’s veil, using something similar to a chunky chopstick, revealing her beaming smile, and all applaud.  The couple then present their parents with drinks, before themselves drinking wine from glasses whose stems are tied together by a single red ribbon.  They do this while linking arms, which strangely reminded me of many an alcohol fuelled night, drinking shots of sambuca with friends in a similar manner!  Food follows – and lots of it - fabulous food of all kinds. My favourite dishes were the duck pancakes, sweet and sour fish & the lobster. 
 
Entertainment came in the form of paper plane throwing competitions, and the children in attendance were then given balloons, stuffed and/or inflatable animal toys.  Then came the bouquet toss. Being announced in Chinese I naturally had no idea what was going to happen, until the groom’s mother took me by the hand and led me on to the stage, to join a relatively small group of unmarried girls… and guys.  Yes, it’s all about equal opportunities here in China – men too can catch the bouquet!  Needless to say, my arms stayed firmly welded to my sides as the red organza bouquet was flung through the air by the bride & groom.  For the record an overweight Chinese guy dressed in a t-shirt and jeans, sporting a ponytail caught it.
 
The lighting of the cigarettes was next on the agenda – I kid you not.  The bride and groom, armed with enough packets of matches and cigarettes to keep the most enthusiastic of chain smokers happy for years, walk around the room offering cigarettes to guests who so wish to inhale the nastiness.  It’s rather a big deal and takes quite some time.  With approximately 160 guests dotted around 16 tables the room turns in to something of a gas chamber.
 
I was one of only two western faces at the wedding reception, and was made to feel very welcome indeed.  The bride and grooms’ parents thanking me for attending and randomers offering ‘hello’s’ and trying to practice their broken English.
 
To Ronny & Jessica, may you have a long and happy married life together.  Thank you for letting me share in your special day.
Lots of love.
A xx