When two worlds collide

It’s always nice to be reminded of home… if sometimes a little strange.  Mr Amy’s visits have been most welcomed, but also a little surreal.  My life here is so vastly different from the UK and being reminded of those differences readies me a little for the reverse culture shock I’m mentally preparing myself for when I return to the UK in December.

 

A couple of weeks ago, I was contacted by an old university friend.  He and his girlfriend (whom I also know from our student days) were travelling South East Asia before heading off to Australasia.  HCMC would form part of their route and they were keen to meet up.  Fantastic; some fresh, friendly and familiar faces to add to the mix.

 

A little surreal at first, some people you just associate with certain spaces.  In the dark recesses of my mind, these guys should be standing in our dimly lit student union bar on a Saturday night, with a pint of snakebite in hand, not using chopsticks and drinking Saigon green!  Nevertheless, awesome to catch up with them, reminisce about our tax dodging years and add a few new memories to the mix.

 

Happy travels you lucky pair, I’m not jealous at all!

A xx

Decline to recline

As I sit on the bus from Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh I pen this post.  I feel there should be a new international law implemented.  Having travelled much of Australia, New Zealand, Vietnam and Cambodia by coach, this is something I’ve experienced on numerous occasions over the years.  Indeed, not only on coaches: in cars, planes and even ferries.

 

What is she rambling on about I hear you say: Reclining a seat when someone’s pert posterior is perched on the place behind.  Being 5’10” has its advantages, but also a fair few down sides: meeting men tall enough to consider dating, finding trousers that aren’t hoisted at half mast up your calves as if you’re mourning the death of their designer; and cramped leg room in public spaces.

 

So here’s the deal.  I pay for my ticket, jump onboard, get comfy and the clown in front (who is usually 5' f*** all) decides they’re now incapable of normal homosapian posture, instead choosing to adopt a horizontal position and attempt to amputate my lush long legs from the knees down.  If said comedian speaks English you can at least explain your situation, which 99% of the time will be resolved quickly and painlessly for all parties.

 

If, however, you are faced with confronting a non-English speaker: good luck.  During our previous bus ride, Mr Amy found himself sitting behind a middle-aged Cambodian woman, who attempted to recline her chair, only to be met by his knees and 2’ framed oil painting.  After getting her attention and making the appropriate gestures towards long legs and oversized souvenirs, she still wasn’t budging.

 

As a scenario I find particularly frustrating, inconsiderate and unnecessary, Amy rage ensued.  It doesn’t happen that often, especially here as Asia teaches you to let a lot of things slide; but when it does rear its head, you’d better watch out.  Pounding my fist on the back of her headrest repeatedly soon sorted her out.

 

A xx

Then it was on to Phnom

From Siem Reap we headed down to the country’s capital, Phnom Penh.  Having heard mixed reviews about the place I arrived with fairly low expectations of somewhere I envisaged to be a smaller version of Saigon.  Thankfully, my theory was disproved: a smaller, cleaner, quieter and slower paced city it was far from being ‘Nam-like.

 

With a couple of days at our disposal we first head up to Wat Phnom, a temple at the highest point of the city, it marks the sight of the first pagoda (which no longer stands here).  Taking time to visit the Independence monument, markets and river front promenade, we enjoyed the relaxed pace and virtually hassle-free environment.

Chanchhaya pavillion

The National Museum

The National museum was next on our to-do list.  Housing hundreds of ‘finds’ from the Angkor period: everything from imposing statues of Kymer Kings to tiny artefacts, jewellery and pottery.  Other city sights included the Independence monument, Chanchhaya pavilion and waterfront.  By night the capital comes alive with restaurants, bars and locals enjoying views of the waterfront and attending aerobics classes on the promenade.  Whilst wandering back to our hotel through Wat Botum park (yes, really) we stumble upon a small crowd, gathered to watch the musical fountain and light show: that wouldn’t have looked out of place in New York or Barcelona.

 Statue of Heng, the sacred golden bird

It has to be said though that the highlight of our stay was Mr Amy’s fantastic find - Cadbury chocolate!  A friend had tipped me off that it is sold over the border and after keeping my eyes open I had almost given up hope of finding it: after 10 months of tasteless treats I was elated when my taste buds rediscovered Cadbury crunchie and marble!

Something I have so far failed to mention is that English Language is prevalent everywhere in Cambodia.  All signs appear in Cambodian and English, some even in Chinese and Korean.  Most are accurate, but this one did raise a smile.

Nearly everyone we came across seemed to have a fairly good command of spoken English.  It is rare to have good banter with Vietnamese people.  Things get lost in translation or taken literally, if understood at all.  Here, however, I find myself having a good giggle with two young lads, each attempting to sell books to tourists.  I tell the first, “no thanks, I can’t read”, as I peruse my copy of The Lonely Planet.  Needless to say, he fully understood the satirical nature of my response.  With the second, I tell him I am currently reading two books and can buy them cheaper in Vietnam.  He asks how much I pay in dong and accurately converts the same price to US dollars.  When I enquire if the photograph of an attractive young girl on the side of his book stand is his girlfriend, I receive the reply, “No money, no honey!”

 

After seeing the sights of the city we head down to the south coast and Sihanoukville, home of the country’s finest beaches: or so they say.  Having seen a fair few amazing beaches during my travels, I found Serendipity beach rather disappointing.  Maybe I’m a beach snob, but this was not the paradise many make it out to be.  After spending a couple of days doing a whole lot of nothing, we found ourselves heading back over the border to the land of ‘Nam.

 

Big thumbs up for Cambodia, and another country ticked off my list.

A xx

Campuchia!

 

With Mr Amy and I back on the same continent for a few weeks (and with a fortnight of my five weeks paid annual leave remaining), we decided to venture out of ‘Nam and see what lay over the border in Cambodia.  I have to admit, this is the last place I had ever envisaged visiting.  The mere mention of this country often holds with it very negative connotations from recent history.  However, numerous colleagues and backpacker associates (Yes that means you Mr Dignan – I hope you’re satisfied now, I promised you’d get a mention at some point!) have nothing but good things to say about the place, so we wanted to see it for ourselves.

 

Our ten day trip would take us to Siem Reap and the indescribably beautiful Temples of Angkor Wat, then on to Phnom Penh, before some quiet beach time in Sihanoukville.  We decide to get the worse part over first – the 12 hour journey from HCMC to Siem Reap.  Crossing the border I was immediately struck by the difference between Cambodian and Vietnamese people: Cambodians appear taller, with darker skin tone, fuller features, better dental care and happier demeanour.

 

Having taken a friends advice, we’d booked a hotel out of town.  Upon our arrival, I spot a smiley local holding a sign bearing my name.  Bowing his head and holding his hands together in a prayer position he welcomes us and introduces himself: this is Rhoun, our tuk tuk driver.  I feel a little like the Sex and the City girls during their trip to Abu Dhabi in the second film of the same name, only minus the killer heels and Dior petticoat.

 

The following morning, Rhoun greets us at breakfast and suggests an itinerary for the day.  First stop – the old market.  After successfully bartering, we walk away with paintings, wooden carvings, jewellery and a few other keepsakes.  Unlike ‘Nam, the stuff here is tasteful, well made and reflects Kymer culture and history.

 

After a trip out of town to see traditional stilt houses, we head for the war museum.  Having decided not to visit the Killing Fields or S21 Genocide museum in Phnom Penh, we feel a short visit here is only right.  Our guide is a 40-something who started fighting aged 14.  As he walks around, demonstrating how each weapon was used, he reveals his amputated limb, shrapnel from land mines and scars from bullets he wasn’t lucky enough to dodge.  Now a widower, after his wife and eldest daughter were fatally injured by land mines a mere 5 years ago, he is a reminder of how the people of this country are still suffering, with little help from a government who don’t fully understand the medical conditions and mental torture suffered as a result of selfless bravery.

 

From the sensitive to the celebrated: As a proud nation, Angkor is everywhere - on the National flag, banknotes and local beer; architecture from the temples of Angkor Wat influences modern constructions and interior design.  Having seen photographs and maps of the site, it was the most keenly anticipated part of our trip.  The overcast day was a blessing as even Lara Croft would have broken a sweat during 6 hours of temple trekking in full South East Asian sunshine.

 

First up was East Mebon, with 3 impressive towers on top of a raised plateau. Next, Ta Prohm; famously featured in the Tomb Raider film and iconic due to the giant writhing ancient trees entwined around the temple.  Bayon followed, where 216 gargantuan faces of Avalokiteshvara watch your every move.   After your second or third temple you become a little blasé about it all – it’s more of the same… until you reach Angkor Wat.  I am incapable of adequately describing this, which for a linguist is kind of a big deal.  To attempt to, would be doing it an injustice.  I doubt any photographer in the world could do this place justice, these photos offer a vague glimpse.

 Ta Prohm

 Bayon

 Angkor Wat

 Angkor Wat

 Stone carvings at Angkor Wat

North Gate of Angkor Thom

 

Having watched a documentary about the design and building techniques supposedly employed during the creation of the temples, it is even more impressive.  No form of mortar was used, stone carvings were overlaid with gold and moats constructed by skilled stoneworkers working alongside carpenters who build the surrounding houses and communal buildings.  It’s a place that both impresses and dumbfounds you.

 

Overnight, torrential rain added to already high water levels in the river which runs through Siem Reap, causing extensive flooding throughout the town centre.  Luckily, our hotel was on higher ground and remained unaffected, but we headed into town the following day to see it for ourselves, only to be met by soap actor Tom Oliver aka Lou Carpenter from ‘Neighbours’ wading in shin deep water!

 

Speaking to the staff at our hotel the morning of our departure, I was amazed by their carefree attitude towards the recent flooding.  One told us how his rented property was now completely flooded, all he could do was raise his bed up on bricks and come to work to earn money for the repairs.  Apparently, the same thing happened in 2002 and 2010.  I have a feeling it may be an annual occurrence.

 

A xx