With Mr Amy and I back on the same continent for a few weeks (and with a fortnight of my five weeks paid annual leave remaining), we decided to venture out of ‘Nam and see what lay over the border in Cambodia. I have to admit, this is the last place I had ever envisaged visiting. The mere mention of this country often holds with it very negative connotations from recent history. However, numerous colleagues and backpacker associates (Yes that means you Mr Dignan – I hope you’re satisfied now, I promised you’d get a mention at some point!) have nothing but good things to say about the place, so we wanted to see it for ourselves.
Our ten day trip would take us to Siem Reap and the indescribably beautiful Temples of Angkor Wat, then on to Phnom Penh, before some quiet beach time in Sihanoukville. We decide to get the worse part over first – the 12 hour journey from HCMC to Siem Reap. Crossing the border I was immediately struck by the difference between Cambodian and Vietnamese people: Cambodians appear taller, with darker skin tone, fuller features, better dental care and happier demeanour.
Having taken a friends advice, we’d booked a hotel out of town. Upon our arrival, I spot a smiley local holding a sign bearing my name. Bowing his head and holding his hands together in a prayer position he welcomes us and introduces himself: this is Rhoun, our tuk tuk driver. I feel a little like the Sex and the City girls during their trip to Abu Dhabi in the second film of the same name, only minus the killer heels and Dior petticoat.
The following morning, Rhoun greets us at breakfast and suggests an itinerary for the day. First stop – the old market. After successfully bartering, we walk away with paintings, wooden carvings, jewellery and a few other keepsakes. Unlike ‘Nam, the stuff here is tasteful, well made and reflects Kymer culture and history.
After a trip out of town to see traditional stilt houses, we head for the war museum. Having decided not to visit the Killing Fields or S21 Genocide museum in Phnom Penh, we feel a short visit here is only right. Our guide is a 40-something who started fighting aged 14. As he walks around, demonstrating how each weapon was used, he reveals his amputated limb, shrapnel from land mines and scars from bullets he wasn’t lucky enough to dodge. Now a widower, after his wife and eldest daughter were fatally injured by land mines a mere 5 years ago, he is a reminder of how the people of this country are still suffering, with little help from a government who don’t fully understand the medical conditions and mental torture suffered as a result of selfless bravery.
From the sensitive to the celebrated: As a proud nation, Angkor is everywhere - on the National flag, banknotes and local beer; architecture from the temples of Angkor Wat influences modern constructions and interior design. Having seen photographs and maps of the site, it was the most keenly anticipated part of our trip. The overcast day was a blessing as even Lara Croft would have broken a sweat during 6 hours of temple trekking in full South East Asian sunshine.
First up was East Mebon, with 3 impressive towers on top of a raised plateau. Next, Ta Prohm; famously featured in the Tomb Raider film and iconic due to the giant writhing ancient trees entwined around the temple. Bayon followed, where 216 gargantuan faces of Avalokiteshvara watch your every move. After your second or third temple you become a little blasé about it all – it’s more of the same… until you reach Angkor Wat. I am incapable of adequately describing this, which for a linguist is kind of a big deal. To attempt to, would be doing it an injustice. I doubt any photographer in the world could do this place justice, these photos offer a vague glimpse.
Ta Prohm
Bayon
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Stone carvings at Angkor Wat
North Gate of Angkor Thom
Having watched a documentary about the design and building techniques supposedly employed during the creation of the temples, it is even more impressive. No form of mortar was used, stone carvings were overlaid with gold and moats constructed by skilled stoneworkers working alongside carpenters who build the surrounding houses and communal buildings. It’s a place that both impresses and dumbfounds you.
Overnight, torrential rain added to already high water levels in the river which runs through Siem Reap, causing extensive flooding throughout the town centre. Luckily, our hotel was on higher ground and remained unaffected, but we headed into town the following day to see it for ourselves, only to be met by soap actor Tom Oliver aka Lou Carpenter from ‘Neighbours’ wading in shin deep water!
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