Pudong skyline, Shanghai

Pudong skyline, Shanghai
Pudong skyline, Shanghai

Friday 18 November 2011

Củ Chi: confined conditions

Having read quite a bit about the resourcefulness and sheer determination of the Vietnamese people during the American War, I felt it was only right I pay a visit to Củ Chi during my time in Saigon.  For the uneducated out there, these vast multi-level tunnel networks, covering more than 250km were home to thousands of Vit cng soldiers.  They were also inhabited by such beasties as spiders, snakes and scorpions, and the lack of light and reduced air flow only added to the uncomfortable surroundings.

 

Bearing all this in mind, I jumped on a coach and prepared myself for some terrifying tunnel trauma.


Upon our arrival, our guide explained the complexities of building such tunnels, the three layer system, necessary air vents, exits to the Saigon river: it all seemed very well thought out and dare I say it, almost civilised.  After further explanations about the effects of agent orange and napalm bombs, we watched a video showing guerrillas preparing ‘uniforms’, making sandals from old car tyres and placing booby traps, in carefully chosen locations, on which to impale and injure the enemy.


Next, we were shown a narrow concealed entrance to a level 1 tunnel and were given the opportunity to enter.  Naturally, I fancied a go and jumped in like a rabbit down a warren.  Placing the cover over my head, it was difficult for others to see where I had gone.

Now you see me... 
...now you don't!!

After a comprehensive explanation of the various booby traps employed by the Vit cng, we were taken to the tunnels.  The section of tunnel that is now open to the public has various ‘escape’ points.  Having heard the tunnel has been made larger to accommodate fuller framed Western visitors, I was pleasantly surprised walking down the steps… only to be met with a tiny tunnel ahead.  On my hands and knees I made my way through, almost immediately noticing the heat and lack of fresh air.  How people stayed below ground for so long eludes me.


 

I have often wondered what memories are concealed behind the tired, worn eyes of the older generation of Vietnamese people.  Each, no doubt, have their own harrowing memories of the war and all that it brought to this country.  After a short sample of those confined tunnel conditions I have a whole new level of respect for the people who fought for their country with such selflessness and unquestionable patriotism in frankly frightful conditions.


A xx

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