Pudong skyline, Shanghai

Pudong skyline, Shanghai
Pudong skyline, Shanghai

Tuesday 30 April 2013

Never a dull moment

Even after more than a year in Shanghai I’m still finding new and exciting places to explore within the city. Over recent weeks, I’ve taken trips to the PowerStation of Art, Old Slaughterhouse, and a replica of the Central Perk coffee house that features in TVs ‘Friends’. M50 art district is an area of galleries, sculptures and graffiti walls – an amalgamation of arty visual treats. Revisiting much loved Shanghai attractions such as Yu Garden can also offer up new surprises depending upon the time of year and festivals being celebrated.






The recent warm, sunny weather has provided the perfect opportunity to spent time sauntering around Shanghai Botanical Gardens. This vast open space of rockeries, bamboo, magnolias and maples provides a peaceful spot to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. The imposing structure named Conservatory 1 was home to some of the most brilliantly vibrant orchids I’ve ever seen and the scenic lift to the top gave us a stunning view from 6 floors above the gardens, as well as making us feel a little warmer than upon entry. The Penjing garden was home to hundreds of bonsai trees, all neatly lined up to be individually admired. There are also a tea houses, a boating lake and temple in its grounds.

There are so many things on my to-do list here. I have yet to see Shanghai Circus World and gaze in awe at the spectacular skills of the Chinese acrobats; I long to visit Longhua temple; and still need to scream like a banshee at Happy Valley theme park. Having recently learnt of Happy Chocolate Land & Napoleon Chocolate Bar I also know the girls & I will have many moreish outings.


Add to that the Andy Warhol exhibition, Red Town sculpture park, Korean Bath House & Mr X Mystery House (where visitors are locked in themed rooms with clues and props and have exactly an hour to work out how to escape) and I can see myself being kept busy over the next few months. Further reasons why I love this city.
 
A xx

Saturday 16 February 2013

Goodbye Dragon, Hello Snake

2013 still brings firsts for me in Shanghai, such as my first Chinese New Year in China.  Although I have been in China for over a year now, I had yet to ring in the lunar New Year here.  The date of this changes every year according to the lunar calendar, and was celebrated at the end of January last year, prior to my arrival.  Having celebrated the Vietnamese equivalent, Tet, during 2011, I was interested to see how Chinese celebrations differ.  I’d been told it’s an amazing time to be in Shanghai, despite the abundance of fireworks at all hours of the day and night throughout the festivities, so I decided to stay in the city, rather than venturing further afield.

As previously mentioned (see ‘Expat Festive Season’ post – Wednesday, 2 January 2013), Chinese New Year is the big holiday in these parts, when National holidays and time off are a given.  As such I could look forward to a week off work and time to relax, socialise and move to my new apartment.  I’ve never been busier – sightseeing, catching up with friends and many more things to boot.

Lunar New Year’s Eve brought with it, as you would imagine, vast numbers of fireworks.  Opting to avoid the crowds congregating at The Bund for the firework and light show, my apartment on the 25th floor, provided spectacular views of the colourful explosions all around the area, whilst also keeping us snug as bugs in rugs.

 
During the fifth day of the Lunar New Year, I was surprised to hear yet more fireworks and bangers, continuously throughout the day & night. I’d been burning the candle at both ends a little and was keen to get an early night while the social scene had quietened a tad, but tonight’s celebrations from my Chinese neighbours were certainly not going to permit that. Having jabbed in some earplugs, completely in vain, I had a mediocre night’s sleep to say the least, only to be woken by the sound of yet more bangers & fireworks. The reason for all this – welcoming the good old God of Fortune, of course! Apparently during these 24 hours, you set off as many fireworks as possible – the louder the bang, the wealthier you will be in the coming year.

Anyhow, I had a great week: fabulous fun in wonderful company and many memories made – the only major downside: none of the street food vendors were working so I had to go without tasty cheap eats for a week!
 
 
Happy Chinese New Year! 新年快! Chúc mng năm mi!
A xx

Saturday 9 February 2013

Chinaverssary

Today marks my first year in China.  I have had a thoroughly enjoyable past 12 months here and can see myself being very happy for a few more years to come in this wonderful country.  As someone who has travelled to a fair few places in search of a sense of belonging, career and travel opportunities, I can say that the past year has exceeded any expectations I may have had upon my arrival.  There are so many variables that all need to come together: the country, city, climate, company: both professionally and personally.  I feel very lucky that this year everything has fallen into place so well.
 
I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to making the past year so amazing - some who have flown in to visit, others who are still in Shanghai, whilst a fair few are now dotted around the world.  You’ve all enriched my experience here greatly.  Roll on the next 12 months – let’s see what it will bring…
 
A xx

Wednesday 2 January 2013

Expat festive season

Working in the EFL world in an Asian country means it is little surprise that we get only a few days off work to enjoy the festive period.  Unsurprisingly, Chinese New Year is the big holiday in these parts, when National holidays and time off are a given.
 
In Vietnam I celebrated Christmas in a swanky Saigon hotel, sharing a beautiful buffet with friends, before sipping cocktails at a rooftop bar overlooking the city.  This year could not have been more different, but equally enjoyable.  Friends of mine kindly invited approximately 20 of us to spend Christmas Day at their apartment.  Bringing food, drinks and Secret Santa gifts, this would be as traditional as any expat Christmas could be.  A very expensive turkey dinner was prepared and devoured before the fruit cake was consumed and alcohol started to flow.  It was a thoroughly enjoyable gathering which made us all feel very thankful to have such great friends around us whilst being so far from home.
 
New Year’s Eve was again cause for celebration, good company and merriment.  Living in a busy, densely populated city means you’re always surrounded by people.  This is something I quickly got used to in Vietnam, to the point when returning to the UK I felt distinctly ‘lonely’ in sparsely populated British public spaces.  On New Year’s Eve, however, I had my first experience of feeling like I was in a crowd.  The Bund was packed; everyone having the same idea – get to the waterfront to see the firework show at midnight.  It brought back memories of many an afternoon spent walking up Utting Avenue in Liverpool towards Anfield stadium.  You don’t consciously walk per say, you more ‘float’ on a wave of the movement around you.  After watching the fireworks we retreated to a nearby bar to continue the celebrations in expat style.
 
Thumbs up for festivities in Shangers – a mix of traditional and alternative, which suits me just fine.
A xx

Tuesday 18 December 2012

I'm shocked you're shocked

From my point of view, life as an expat has many advantages: fantastic travel opportunities, great career prospects, a nicer and more affordable standard of living than the U.K. offers, a diverse network of friends and colleagues – I could go on.  But for some, life as an expat holds far more cons than pros.  I’m referring again to my old friend culture shock (see ‘Culture shock’ post – Friday, 15 April 2011).  This year I haven’t experienced this at all, for me China provides enough familiarity, with an equal amount of quirky differences, for which I am appreciative.  For others, the balance just isn’t there and China seems so drastically different to ‘normality’ (whatever that may be), that Mr. C Shock comes knocking.

It’s nice to have a basis for comparison as an expat & EFL teacher.  My experiences in Vietnam have undoubtedly helped me to easily adjust to living and working in China.  As I’ve previously mentioned (see ‘Familiarity’ post – Wednesday, 21 March 2012), less travelled newcomers comment on daily challenges they find and differences they do not always appreciate about living in an Asian country.  A colleague recently mentioned they would take inspiration from me and the way I deal with situations I encounter in China, which was very humbling from someone for whom I have such great professional respect.  In short, we can all learn from one another and should strive to help each other with our demons.

These personal battles can build up inside people and should not be underestimated.  Seeing friends and co-workers seemingly ‘melt’ in front of your eyes isn’t a nice thing to experience.  Factors such as work demands, living situations, social experiences and friend/family matters back in their home countries can all tip people over the edge.
 
However, friends and colleagues who have previously lived in developing countries/second tier cities in China feel disbelief that anyone could ever find life in Shanghai a ‘culture shock’.  After my time in Vietnam I genuinely feel I could live anywhere: it’s the small things here that I appreciate so much, but without that basis for comparison others just can’t relate.

A xx

Thursday 13 December 2012

Tailor made

I’m not sure how this escaped the blog for so long, as I could easily have typed about this topic during my time in Vietnam, anyway we’re getting to it now.  Being tall and slim poses some problems, not least if you’re tall, slim and living in Asia.  Last year I could easily find tops, shorts and skirts to fit, but when it comes to leg length the Vietnamese aren’t exactly well known for being a nation with an abundance of folks with 34” inside leg measurements.  The solution was fast, easy and very cheap – go to a tailor.  Two pairs of trousers, made in five days, costing less than they would on the UK high street: genius.

Here in China, it’s much the same story.  I frequent H&M & Forever 21, but few stores stock longer leg lengths.  There’s one place that I can always rely upon – The South Bund Soft Spinning Fabric market.  Hop on a metro, enter the 3 story building and you will be overwhelmed by the number of stalls on offer.  Some specialise in leather jackets, others in suits or dresses.  I’ve been here on several occasions since my arrival and am always very pleased with their work.  Whether they are repairing a belt, lining a skirt or making something entirely from scratch they always deliver.  It’s very straightforward – first find someone whose level of English is good enough to communicate with!  Next, choose the style (or better still take something you want copied), and select the fabric, lining material, buttons etc.  Then comes the tape measure – taking and recording every possible necessary measurement in under a minute.  Hey presto, made to measure one of a kind trousers, skirts and coats for less than the price you’d pay on the high street.  Take that Savile Row!

Frequenting the fabric market also avoids having to adopt Chinese fashion trends, which look laughable on most westerners.  I mainly refer to the bubble jacket, something which I had not seen since in probably ten years, until I arrived in China.  The Chinese love these portable duvets and wear them all the time during winter months.
 
And it doesn’t stop there.  I find it very difficult to find shoes to fit here in China.  They generally stock the size smaller than mine, but few have anything that I like and find comfortable.  Ordering on Taobao (Chinese eBay) is possible, but can still be risky.  That is now a thing of the past, as I found someone who will make them for me.  Simply choose the style, leather and let them measure your tootsies.  Your one of a kind, super soft shoes are made in two days.

Yet more reasons why I love living in Asia.

A xx

Wednesday 12 December 2012

Yeehaa!

It’s time again for another Regional team building event.  We hadn’t had a Regional gathering since our trip to Anji in June (see Anji antics! post - Friday, 22 June 2012), and since then another school has joined our Region.  Sure, you see people at meetings, trainings and on the social scene, but it’s always nice to have a whole group gathering.  I heard another Region in the city had recently celebrated by having a dinner and black tie award ceremony at a very swish downtown hotel, so was excited to see what was in store for us.  Having received an email asking if any of the Senior Teachers had rodeo experience, I shouldn’t have been surprised when our fun loving Aussie Production Manager’s choice of theme was revealed – COW: Cowboy or Western!

 Also held at a swish hotel in the Jing’An area of the city, this all expenses paid all you can eat & drink event was an award ceremony with a twist – the guest of honour was a mechanical bull!  Reminiscing about my backpacker antics, I clearly recall coming in second place at a mechanical bull riding competition in Kroombit Cattle Station in Biloela, Queensland!

The Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse
'Bessie'!
 
Having ordered cowboy hats and neckerchiefs for staff at our school, we all rolled up decked out in denim and checked shirts – looking fabulous!  After enjoying the buffet and award ceremony the activities began.  These included line dancing, pool shark competition and Texas hold ‘em poker.  Having a bit of nous, I’d signed up for the second round of the ‘bucking bronco’ activity, figuring fewer people would be around to stare by that point in the proceedings – I was right!  Getting a swift ‘leg up’ from a fellow Senior Teacher, I felt quite at ease on the bull’s back.  It had been about five years since I’d attempted this, but I was still quietly confident.  On my first attempt I lasted a very respectable 34 seconds, gathering more attention than I’d first anticipated. 

 A few hours later, after most of the Chinese staff had called it a night, a second attempt was on the cards.  With a slightly numb bum from my first try I still managed to hold on for 45 seconds.  Upping the stakes, some of the guys decided to see who had the bigger manhood by riding ‘Bessie’ blindfolded and backwards, needless to say they didn’t hold on for very long!  The next challenge was to see if tandem bull riding was a possibility – and it was.  A male colleague and I jumped on and did pretty well, we didn’t last a full minute, like one of the other ‘couples’, but still made it over 30.
 
Another great event, thanks EF.

A xx

Tuesday 4 December 2012

Time flies

Dear reader,
I feel I owe you an apology, my recent lack of blog posts must have hit you hard, I know how my eloquently written, amusing anecdotes cheer up your day and offer an insight into the life of an expat EFL teacher… 

Seriously though, there is good reason for my infrequent postings of late: my life is literally flashing before my eyes.  It’s now already December and I genuinely have no idea where the past four months have gone!  I shouldn’t and indeed am not complaining, but I feel things are moving so quickly that I almost don’t have time to take stock and appreciate my life here.

 Since August work has been very busy, my new role as a Senior Teacher has given me far more responsibility, which I welcome and have fully embraced.  Attending Life Club events and meetings, training teachers in my school and region, as well as my regular teaching schedule has kept me very busy during work days. 

And things don’t let up there; socially I always seem to be out and about too.  The temperature may have dropped, but it’s still just about in double figures and my hibernation mode has yet to kick in.  With Christmas, New Year, Chinese New Year and Winter course all quickly approaching, I’m looking forward to using my annual leave next week to rest, relax and reflect on just how great this year has been to date.
 
A xx

Friday 30 November 2012

Zen & the art of compromising positions

I have no idea why it took me so long, perhaps it was the constant buzz the city has, the vast array of sightseeing spots, bars and leisure activities on offer, but I was 9 months in this great city before going for a Chinese massage.  Always airing on the side of caution when preparing to be oiled up and rubbed down by a stranger, I joined a friend as she returned to a spa she’d visited a few months earlier while her mother was visiting.
 
As you know I’m no stranger to having strangers work their magic on me (see ‘Rubbed up the right way’ post – Friday, 5 August 2011).  A trip to ‘Zen’ was, however, an altogether different experience, even for me.  For a start, my masseuse was male, which may sound perverted or creepy until I tell you that Chinese massages are traditionally done through silk pyjama style robes.  So covered in my sexy silk ensemble, I prepared for Tom to work his magic – and he did just that.  A one hour full body massage, followed by a 30 minute foot massage - bliss.  Never before have I had someone bend and shape me in such a way, or get on the massage bed themselves whilst doing so!  As a particularly flexible female who has dabbled in yoga and been prone to dislocating her joints, even I didn’t know my limbs moved in those ways! 
 
Needless to say, I spread the word and more of the girls from work have paid Tom a visit.  I’ll be back in a few weeks for more spine cracking satisfaction.
A xx

Saturday 24 November 2012

Ebb & flow

Now almost ten months in to my time here in China and there have been a lot of changes.  Our school has grown at a phenomenal rate, with a far larger team of staff than when I first joined.  Some members of staff have been with the company many years, whilst others stay only a short time.  The EFL world is a very transient industry and the passage of teachers coming and going is more evident this year as I work in a far smaller school.   

Looking back on my time in Shanghai I can almost mark the seasons by recalling whose company I kept.  Longer term friends in the city have commented how they can delete people from their phonebooks on an almost monthly basis, not due to any falling out, merely because friends have returned to their home countries, or moved on to pastures new.  As friends and colleagues leave, to be replaced by others, it’s still a little sad to know even though you’ll stay in touch via many online communication networks, they won’t be around in Shanghai to phone or text and arrange social events with.

A close friend returned home yesterday and I know I’m going to feel this loss more than most so far.  Have a wonderful time back home hun, I’m so happy for you but also sad in an utterly selfish way. Much love and thanks for the laughs and happy memories.

A xx

Monday 29 October 2012

HK OK

Having spent 9 days sauntering around the sights of Shanghai, it was time for the family to venture further afield.  A trip to Hong Kong, before heading home provided a change of scene and allowed me to join them to explore somewhere new to us all.

Upon our arrival, it all felt a little too familiar, I could read signs, as you would imagine everything is clearly marked in English and Chinese.  Everyone (or near enough everyone) speaks some degree of English.  Both of these things were a novelty for a short time, before the realisation that 90% of written and spoken English is unnecessary drivel – advertising and gossip.  Another reason I like working in non-English speaking countries – ignorance is bliss and you can easily block out and ignore foreign chit chat.

Anyway, I digress.  Returning to familiarity – everything was very British… except the weather of course: hot & humid is far from Brit climate.  The road signs, double decker buses, street names, high street stores such as M&S, Clarkes and Hush Puppies etc.  Brands and products were the same as at home.  Prior to taking this trip, I was of course aware of the 1997 handover, but still I expected the Chinese would have made more of a mark since.

Initially venturing out of the hotel and getting our bearings led us to the Avenue of the Stars, a short walk from where we were staying in Kowloon.  I won’t lie, most of the names I didn’t recognise, but Jackie Chan, Bruce Lee and Jet Li were a few I did.  Posing for a photo, placing my palms in the concrete casts of one Mr J. Chan, I can tell they weren’t accurate moulds.  I’ve yet to meet an Asian man with larger hands than mine.  I doubt Jackie’s really are – he probably wobbled the cement to give the impression his hands were larger (pun intended).  The Avenue of the Stars also provided a good vantage point from which to watch the sunset on our first day.
 

Venturing out of Kowloon we got the ferry to Hong Kong Island.  Having read of the stunning views the tram to Victoria Peak viewpoint offered, we were slightly worried the heat haze would detract from the experience.  Luckily, our fears weren’t realised and the views were as impressive as we had hoped.  Spending the day in the company of a lovely Australian lady we met on the bus journey provided a reminder of how different my lifestyle and career choices are from the majority of people.  If you’re reading this Marie, thank you for your company and for making me feel so special.
 

The next day saw us walking down Nathan Road, the main street that runs north to south down Kowloon.  Being asked every 20 yards became exhausting and the monotony of replying ‘no, thank you’ gave way to my playful side.  Instead, I adopted a different tact, choosing to question them, ask if they could repair my broken watch free of charge, or just providing compliments and enquiring how a man stays in such obviously good physical shape when his job merely requires him to stand on a pavement all day every day! I’m sure it brightened their days too.

Which brings me nicely to my favourite observation about Hong Kong – the men.  Most guys in Shanghai are fairly short (compared to me anyway) and rather effeminate.  Now I like a man to be fashionable and take care of his appearance, but when his shoe/bag collection is larger than you own, you have to start wondering…  Hong Kong, however, has a multitude of tall, toned, totty!  Men of all races and backgrounds who are fashionable and firm!  Men of Shanghai, ditch the Dolce and man up!

A trip to the jade market saw me walking away with some very reasonably priced purple jade earrings and necklace - more my style than the light green stuff traditionally worn in these parts and unusual to boot.  Telling traders you live in Shanghai always gains more respect and lower ‘special prices for you’ and they know you won’t budge from your original ‘best price’ offer.

Kowloon park was next on the agenda, with a Chinese garden, sculpture park and aviary amongst other sections there was plenty to see.  The highlight for me was ‘admiring’ the oversized statues in the Avenue of Comic Stars.  None of whom I had heard of or seen before, but I had fun posing with a few of them anyhow.

 

Our final evening saw us getting dolled up to take advantage of a generous gift.  A lush buffet style dinner inside a well known International hotel chain.  Trying my best to maintain the ladylike exterior was particularly challenging once faced with so many different dishes and foods not commonly found or eaten during my time in Asia.  Gorging on everything that took my fancy and opting for a large plate upon which to place my multitude of desserts no doubt left a few onlookers asking the eternal question: “where does she put it all?”
 
 
My verdict – a nice city break for the materialistic shopaholics and an ideal place to dip your toe in an Asian experience, but not somewhere a well-travelled culture-seeking sort like myself could see herself returning to.  Back to street food, chopsticks and incomprehensible Chinese chit chat for me – I’m sooooo Asian now!
 
A xx

Sunday 28 October 2012

It's a family affair

Last year I discouraged my family from visiting Vietnam; the dirt, heat, humidity and all that comes with a developing country in the tropics didn’t seem like the kind of place they would lovingly embrace – even for a short holiday.  This year, however, I was keen to share my life here with them: selling Shanghai as ‘the New York of Asia’.  Both well travelled, worldly wise ladies, this would be Mum’s first visit to Asia and my Aunt’s second visit to China.  Nine days in Shangers, followed by four days in Hong Kong seemed a nice way to ease little Mumsy in to Chinese culture, whilst still maintaining some western familiarity.

New experiences included wandering around the French Concession, visiting the Jade Buddha Temple; taking a trip to my school to meet my fantastic colleagues, a night time tour of the Bund with Cathy; drinks in one of my favourite tipple-tastic wine bars; lunch with a friend in an English themed restaurant; exploring the alleys and lanes of Tianzifang with its many arts and crafts curio shops; shopping and taking in the scenery at the Yu garden; bartering and driving hard bargains at one of the markets; and getting up close to the towers in Pudong.

 
 
As I had to work on the Saturday, Mum & Aunt had the perfect opportunity to spend time with one of my friends, in the form of a daytrip to Hangzhou.  Once off the bullet train they mooched around the lake, gardens and pagodas offered a glimpse of a second tier city and slower pace to Chinese life.

Our final evening in Shangers offered a new cultural dining experience for the pair when we were invited to a Korean BBQ.  I’m a big fan of Korean food and always enjoy a do-it-yourself BBQ.  With four friends as company we consumed a feast of BBQ meats, kimchee and the like.  An excellent way to end the trip and another example of how wonderful and considerate my Chinese friends are.

It was wonderful to see them again after so long and great to share my new life.
A xx

Saturday 13 October 2012

Quite a reception

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of attending my first Chinese wedding reception.  An excellent opportunity to experience a traditional celebration and a fabulous excuse to dress up, I had been looking forward to this for quite some time. 
 
Walking into the grand room I first noticed the marble and mirrored pillars, then the chandeliers, dark drapes and marble stage.  Next I see the happy couple, waiting to greet me.  The bride wore a traditional red silk Chinese dress, with matching flat shoes; the groom - a burgundy collarless suit.
 
Upon arrival you are requested to have your photos and video taken with the bride & groom, then just with the groom, then lovingly embracing the bride, then holding the gift of a hóngbāo (red envelope) that is traditionally given at such events.  Your next task is to sign the wedding book, which got the attention of numerous onlookers as they watched me write, obviously in English using Roman alphabet.  Being led to my seat, to my surprise I found I was seated on the Chinese equivalent of the ‘top table’.  In China, this is not reserved for the bride & groom’s family, but for them to share with their closest friends: a wonderful surprise and great honour.
 
The MC announces the happy couple and they come walking down a red aisle, to a stage draped in red organza and decorated with the Chinese sign for ‘happiness’.  The bride, wearing an ornate veil over her head and face, approaches with her groom in hand, while the happy couple’s parents sit on either side of the stage to greet them.  After lots of speeches and incomprehensible Chinese chit chat, the groom lifts the bride’s veil, using something similar to a chunky chopstick, revealing her beaming smile, and all applaud.  The couple then present their parents with drinks, before themselves drinking wine from glasses whose stems are tied together by a single red ribbon.  They do this while linking arms, which strangely reminded me of many an alcohol fuelled night, drinking shots of sambuca with friends in a similar manner!  Food follows – and lots of it - fabulous food of all kinds. My favourite dishes were the duck pancakes, sweet and sour fish & the lobster. 
 
Entertainment came in the form of paper plane throwing competitions, and the children in attendance were then given balloons, stuffed and/or inflatable animal toys.  Then came the bouquet toss. Being announced in Chinese I naturally had no idea what was going to happen, until the groom’s mother took me by the hand and led me on to the stage, to join a relatively small group of unmarried girls… and guys.  Yes, it’s all about equal opportunities here in China – men too can catch the bouquet!  Needless to say, my arms stayed firmly welded to my sides as the red organza bouquet was flung through the air by the bride & groom.  For the record an overweight Chinese guy dressed in a t-shirt and jeans, sporting a ponytail caught it.
 
The lighting of the cigarettes was next on the agenda – I kid you not.  The bride and groom, armed with enough packets of matches and cigarettes to keep the most enthusiastic of chain smokers happy for years, walk around the room offering cigarettes to guests who so wish to inhale the nastiness.  It’s rather a big deal and takes quite some time.  With approximately 160 guests dotted around 16 tables the room turns in to something of a gas chamber.
 
I was one of only two western faces at the wedding reception, and was made to feel very welcome indeed.  The bride and grooms’ parents thanking me for attending and randomers offering ‘hello’s’ and trying to practice their broken English.
 
To Ronny & Jessica, may you have a long and happy married life together.  Thank you for letting me share in your special day.
Lots of love.
A xx

Sunday 30 September 2012

MAN-icures


I have considered writing about this matter since I first arrived in China.  It’s something that really troubles me and even though I once vowed to a friend I would never share this on my blog, over recent months it has been such a pet hate that I feel the need to write this.  It’s something that has also disturbed many of my fellow expats and has repeatedly been the focus of many a conversation in both public and private spaces. 

What am I referring to: Men with freakishly long, strong, witch-like fingernails.  It’s a strangely common sight here in China, usually only found on pinky fingers, but sometimes thumbs or in very rare, stomach churning cases: all ten digits.  It’s more prevalent in middle aged men, but some people of my generation still adopt the look.

Asking Chinese friends about this sheds little light on the situation.   Some say fingernails were traditionally grown in years gone by as something of a status symbol, an indication you didn’t do manual labour and were wealthy enough to pay to have such tasks done for you.  But these days this explanation seems rather redundant.  People now apparently grow them for a number of reasons.  A Chinese friend of mine grows them for superstitious reasons, believing they bring good luck, as his commission based job suffers when his nails are cut short.  During busy sales events and crucial times of the year his nails always stay long, to give him the edge over his competitors.  Others just grown them to poke and prod in any available orifice.  Yes… I’ve witnessed it during many metro journeys in full view of everyone and it’s shamelessly, stomach churningly disgusting!
 
Whatever the reasoning behind it, the sight of such claws truly shocks newcomers to the country upon first glimpse and still entirely freaks the rest of us all out.  No matter how many times you see men with nails like this, you never become accustomed to it.

Men of China, do us all a favour – invest in a pair of nail clippers and slice off those talons.
A xx

Saturday 29 September 2012

Mid-Autumn Festival

National Holiday is upon us, for most expats here in China it means a week off work and time to enjoy the last of the summer sunshine by taking short breaks around Asia.  I however am staying in sunny Shangers to explore yet more of this great city and catch up with friends.
 
There is some confusion about Mid-Autumn festival, numerous tales about it origins and how people celebrate.  The extent of my knowledge could previously have been summed up with one word ‘mooncake’.  These are round pastries filled with anything from red bean paste to salted duck eggs, which are consumed in vast amounts over this period.  I first encountered them in Vietnam, offered as gifts from my students.  It was a shame I just couldn’t bring myself to like them, choosing instead to give them to my hard-working, mooncake-loving colleagues.
 
So what is mid-Autumn festival?  It’s a lunar harvest festival celebrated by Chinese and Vietnamese people.  The festival is held on the 15th day of the 8th month in the Chinese calendar, which falls in September or early October and was recently made a Chinese public holiday.  It is associated with the legend of the Moon Goddess of Immortality.  Celebrations include carrying brightly lit lanterns, lighting lanterns on towers, burning incense to honour deities, and Fire Dragon dances.
 
My Director of Studies has introduced a role of Cultural Mentor, one of our local teachers who will not only have the unenviable task of teaching the foreign teachers Chinese, but also educate us about life in China: traditions, celebrations and customs.  It’s a fantastic initiative, which I’m very much looking forward to beginning.
 
Happy Mid-Autumn celebrations to my friends in China & Vietnam.
A xx